What you missed in fashion this week

Featuring Harry Style’s fashion investment, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men F/W 2024 and Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton

Harry Styles invested in S.S. Daley

On January 11, British men’s fashion brand S.S Daley revealed that Harry Styles had acquired a minority stake within the company. The exact figure of the investment has not been disclosed. In a statement, the brand’s founder and designer, Steven Stokey-Daley, said: “Harry and I have a shared vision for the future of S.S. Daley and we look forward to this new chapter together as we focus on brand longevity and scaling the business into a modern British heritage house.”

S.S. Daley is a brand taking on classic British silhouettes and clothing with gender neutrality in mind. When Styles wore Stokey-Daley’s 2020 graduate collection in his Golden music video, doors were opened for the brand to step into the fashion industry. In 2022, the designer received the LVMH Prize for Young Designers and then the British Fashion Council Foundation Award for Best Emerging Designer.
With this investment, S.S. Daley has been able to take on staff and relaunch its direct-to-consumer website.

Milan Fashion Week Men’s F/W 2024 recap

Running from January 12 to January 16, Milan Fashion Week kicked off the new fashion year.  The brands showing on the runway included Gucci, Dsquared2, Fendi, Prada, JW Anderson, and more.

Here is Shift’s recap of the most talked-about shows of the season.

Gucci:

Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci remains minimalist as the continuation of his last September womenswear show. The collection features sleek silhouettes, tailored suits, coats, and silk chokers. De Sarno toned down Gucci’s logomania look, but it still made its way into two-piece suits. True to Gucci’s essence, many bags of different kinds—shoulder bags, backpacks, and duffle bags—were the accompaniment to most looks. The internet is divided on the new Gucci. People either love it or hate it – the Marmite of fashion it appears.

Dsquared2:

Dsquared2 put on a show of fashion futurism meets campy performance art. It sent both menswear and womenswear down the runway. Models entered a futuristic pod and the daytime look became a nighttime one. How? Dean and Dan Caten, identical twins and designers, cast exclusively twins. Daytime models sport casual clothes, fur hats, and jeans and smeared with dirt. Once they go through the pod, the look transforms into sleek leather, sexy cut-outs, and luxurious fur coats, worn by the nighttime models. Social media was abuzz when Dan Caten walked out in a sparkly shirt and black pants while Dean Caten was in full drag, inspired by Linda Evangelista’s Mugler runway look.

Prada:

For F/W 2024 menswear, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons made a statement on our isolation from the natural environment. The set was industrial, with tall concrete walls and the guests’ seats were swivel office chairs. However, beneath the seats was a glass floor, which separated viewers from a meadow-like scenery: a stream runs through the grass, rocks littering the scene. The models walk down the runway in business attire—tailored suits, peacoats, turtlenecks, oxfords—with a twist of swimming caps in different colors. Also referencing a return to nature are raincoats, naval jackets, and sailor caps.

JW Anderson:

Making waves on social media are the pant-less male models in hosiery opening JW Anderson Men’s Fall 2024 show. These models were wearing oversized sweaters with flower brooches and prints. As the show went on, the looks transitioned into a women’s pre-fall collection: sexy V-neck plunge, opera gloves, short trench coats, with pumps. Mixed in-between were menswear looks with oversized cardigans, overcoats, and cargo pants. The inspiration for the collection was Stanley Kubrick’s movie Eyes Wide Shut—Anderson’s favourite movie. The prints and patterns in these runway looks were a collaborative effort featuring past artworks by Kubrick’s widow, Christiane. The paintings had been cast as background stars in Kubrick’s movies, and are reintroduced here as the leading star.

Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton went yeehaw

On January 16, Pharrell showed his Louis Vuitton F/W 2024 menswear at Paris Fashion Week. This time he went all American and into the Wild West. In the post-show interview, Pharrell spoke of his inspiration, “When you see cowboys portrayed you only see a few versions. You never really get to see what some of the original cowboys looked like. They looked like us, they looked like me. They looked Black. They looked Native American.”

The show was set against a desert backdrop. Denim, cowboy hats, big buckle belts, Western boots, bolo ties, and cowhide patterns are all attributes of the Western cowboys. But Pharrell incorporated these into the brand’s aesthetic with the sheer floral lace shirts, immaculate tailoring, patterned Louis Vuitton logo on clothing, and the fashion house’s signature bags.

To pay tribute to the Native American inspiration, Louis Vuitton worked with artists from the Dakota and Lakota tribes. This included hand-painting and desert flower embroideries on Speedy bags, the opening and closing music, and Lakotan musician Gunner Jules who walked the show.

The show also featured the collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Timberland, which was teased on Pharrell’s Instagram three days before the show. As we know now, there are two versions: one plain but when the shoe tongue is flipped, there’s an LV monogram embossed inside; the other has an LV monogram all over.

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